| The
tire/utility carrier has many uses. First and foremost,
it can carry up to a 37" tire. The wheel is secured
to the carrier with a threaded "T" handle,
which is lockable (with a long padlock) and works
with most standard after market rims of different
sizes and bolt circles. Some rims require trimming
the wheel washer. Stock rims with a center hole dimension
of less than 2 ¼” would also be a problem.
Auxiliary
reverse/rock lights can be mounted on gussets on
the inside lower corners the frame, and the top
of the center post is capped with a tab and 1/2"
hole for antenna mounting. When certain cargo systems
are used, this tab is used to secure the racks to
the tire frame. If a cargo system like this is added,
an extension tab will have to be created for the
antenna if you use one.
The
rack swings out 90° from the rear of the Jeep
with the use of a milled slot in the spindle and
a spring loaded lock rod through the main beam that
will engage the slot. This locks the carrier in
the open position. The rack mounts to the bumper
spindle with a clamp sleeve on the spindle. Spindle
is center drilled for lubrication with a grease
Zerk fitting on top.
On
the upper right is a hinge provision that bolts
into the body tub. To install this will require
drilling two holes into the body tub. Though putting
holes and attaching a tire carrier to the body may
not be preferred, it is essential to stabilize the
carrier. The upper hinge is also bolted to the carrier
frame. This is for the ability to position the upper
hinge up or down if a body lift is added or if the
hinge bracket does not hit the body where it should.
The upper hinge uses a urethane bushing to provide
a cushion between the rack frame and body tub. On
the upper left corner of the carrier frame, there
is a 3/8” thick tab. This is for an auxiliary
pinning yoke that would be installed on the body
tub as an additional securing point if a cargo system
is added later. This too would require drilling
into the tub.
Hi-Lift
jack hardware is included. As is one tab for a lock.
Mounting the jack will require removal of the bottom
foot on the jack. Because of the mounting this Hi-Lift
in such a confined space, to get them tucked away
nicely, cutting down the handle and main beam is
common practice. Three or so inches works great.
As far as shortening the effective range of the
jack, consider using a ratchet strap or small chain
with a ‘S’ hook to loosely tie the axle
to the frame. When the slack has been taken out
of the strap or chain, it will then lift the axle
without having to go through the whole range of
articulation that our high dollar suspensions will
allow. This just could minimize the tipsy condition
you get from a fully extended jack. Just a thought.
When
a Hi-Lift is kept in the carrier, it has a tendency
to cover the license plate. Relocation of the plate
is a good solution. One good placement for this
is on the T-handle that secures the tire. Drill
two ¼” holes in the cross handle, bolt
the plate to it with an illuminating license holder,
and its done. A quick disconnect electrical union
will be required for the light as well. Hot Rod
outlets have classy holders worth checking into.
Ours are effective, but not quite as nice.
A
Mad-Axe Mount is also available, which places the
axe just above the Hi-Lift.
Something
that helps the stability of this carrier to the
vehicle is using the existing rubber tire bumpers
that the TJ’s have on their rear doors. Use
spacers if the carriers don’t touch them and
cut some of the rubber bumpers if they contact too
soon. The idea is to dial in just a little resistance
before the lower latch engages the locking slot.
|